MALANG. Perhaps, bakso malang and cwie mie are the ones that come in mind when thinking about culinary of Malang, a city in East Java . However, Malang actually has other delicacies, such as rawon (black paste beef stew), orem-orem, and nasi mawut.
One of famous culinary spots in Malang is located on Jalan Kawi Atas in Klojen area. The location is a home for a legendary rawon stall, which becomes an icon of Malang, namely Rawon Djenggot.
However, the stall, which is found since 1976 is not 100% precisely situate don Jalan Kawi Atas. The exact location of Rawon Djenggot is on Kawi Atas intersection. From Alun-Alun Malang (Malang Square), Rawon Djenggot is situated on the left side.
A big board written “Rawon Djenggot” that is installed in front of Kawi Atas intersection marks the stall owned by Purwati. The food stall is also marked by a red gate and situated only 50 meter from the road side.
But, please note that Rawon Djenggot is not open every day. It is only open from 5pm to 12pm during Monday-Wednesday and Friday-Saturday. Why? Purwati said that Thursday and Sunday are the times for preparing the ingredients. “It takes more than a half day”, said the second generation heir of Rawon Djenggot.
The perfect time to enjoy rawon is in the evening. “Once, we opened in the morning. But, almost nobody came”, said Purwati. Even though Rawon Djenggot has a 80 seats capacity, it is not easy to get seats in the food stall during holiday seasons, especially during Christmas and New Year festivities. However, Rawon Djenggot is always close during Iedul Fitri.
Once you sit, a waiter will come to get your order. The food stall that is named after Purwati’s father, Rajid serves nasi rawon campur or rawon served mixed with rice complete with sambal ulek (Indonesian style of grind chili paste). But you can ask to serve them separately.
Soon afterwards, a plate of rawon comes. The gravy is thick black, smooth, and no oil traces. Each of portion consists of five beef cuts (in a size of knuckle), bean sprouts, and sambal ulek.
Rawon Djenggot has a specific menu that you cannot find in other rawon stalls, namely sambal goreng tempe (fried chili paste mixed with tempe, a kind of fermented soy cake).
The “ritual” starts by tasting the gravy. At the first sip, you can taste the savory and salty sensations blend together with the aroma of spices and keluwek or black nut (Pangium edule), the main ingredient of rawon. So fresh.
“It has rich tastes. Savory, not too salty, and spicy,” said Defina Romasi, a first time visitor.
Purwati revealed some secrets of her family treasure recipe, which was originally made by her mother, Sutani. First, in making the broth, Purwati uses lean meat. Second, using high quality keluwek. She prefers to use keluwek that has shiny black color, and is oily, a little bit heavy, and not bitter . In one week, Purwati uses 30 kilogram of keluwek from Bali and Blitar. Third, using lot of spices.
Rawon can be served with several condiments, such as empal (beef slice), salty egg, beef tripe, fritters, toufu, and tempe.
Tempe, which is served in Rawon Djenggot is specially produced for the rawon stall. Every day, the rawon stall orders 400 pieces of tempe. “We order tempe fom them since long time ago”, said Purwati.
Aside of rawon, another favorite menu in this stall is nasi campur lodeh. One of the customers is Dedy Mizwar, Vice Governor of West Java, who is also an actor. “He always calls us one day before comes here,” Purwati said.
In Purwati’s stall, lodeh is served with toufu, tempe, long beans, fried noodles, sambal goreng tempe (fried chili paste with tempe), serundeng (fried coconut flakes), and sambal ulek (grind chili paste).
So, if you visit Malang, don’t miss culinary tour to Rawon Djenggot. Price for one portion of nasi rawon or nasi soto (chicken or beef soup served with rice) is IDR18,000. Price for one portion of nasi campur lodeh, nasi campur bali, and nasi goreng jawa (Javanes fried rice) is IDR16,000. Price for one piece of tempe, and perkedel is IDR2,000. For beverages, Rawon Djanggo only serves tea, orange water, and ginger (IDR5,000 per glass), as well as coffee (IDR4,000).
Sambal goreng tempe is also available for takeaway. Price for one portion is IDR16,000. “My sambal have ventured abroad, like Hongkong and Malaysia”, said Purwati proudly.
Rawon Djenggot
Address: Jalan Simpang Kawi Atas, No.1 Klojen Malang, East Java. Phone: 0851-0057-3858 (mobile).
GPS coordinate: S7°97.51974’.E112°61.81202’
(Translator: Muhammad Farid)